Greetings to all
scale enthusiasts. First, allow me to introduce myself. My name
is Kenny Kear, I’m a member of the USSMA (Member #152). I’m
also a life member of the Academy
of Model
Aeronautics
(L92357). I have been married for 30 plus years to my wife Mary
Lee Kear (USSMA member #153). I’m a USAF veteran. My wife
and I have 4 kids (all grown) and two grand kids. I have been
involved in model aviation since the age of 8. I’m
currently employed at Honeywell International as a lab technician
testing land, sea and air components for various customers around
the world.
I would first
like to get this out in the open before I start. I’m a
regular modeler like the rest of you out there. Just having a
great time doing the things I love to do… Modeling. I
haven’t published any books or any of that jazz. Just
creating models and having fun doing it.
(First things
first… it’s my father’s fault I’m doing
this scale stuff. Thanks dad. “Rest in peace”.)
Being my mother
didn’t have a lot of extra money to support my hobby I had
to find a way to fund my passion. I started collecting soda pop
bottles using my oldest sister’s faded blue bicycle. The
frame had the big cutout in the middle for girls and big baskets
in the rear on both sides. I couldn’t sit on the seat and
reach the pedals so I rode the bike standing up on the pedals to
all of my destinations. You know …back alleys, garbage
dumpsters, gutters, etc., where I found my greenbacks in glass
form. I took my pop bottles down to the nearest convenience store
and cashed them in for the big pay-out. (Yep...about $3.00…
I had struck it rich). I then went to the local hobby shop where
I purchased a stick and tissue rubber powered sport model with the
help of dad (I was only about 9 years of age at the time). I
built so many rubber models that I just knew that I had kept the
hobby shops and main manufacturers in business for some time while
also keeping the neighborhood clean.
At the age of 12
I started building more scale models like Guillows, Comet etc. I
started adding more and more scale details to them. Please keep
in mind that these models still had to be built light and strong
along with adding all the other neat scale details on them.
After a few years
of building and flying (AMA Gas Free Flights along with scale
rubber models) I felt pretty confident of my building and flying
skills. I decided to take the next step.
Nope, not control
line, they made me dizzy and I would let go of the handle and
turned them into a free flight for a few seconds until they
demolished themselves. Well, you guessed it…I got the itch
to build and fly R/C models. “Oh boy the fun has started
now”.
I would build
trainers and semi-scale models that were proven to fly from
manufactured kits like Sig, Sterling Models etc. I would then add
small details to them trying to keep the weight and cost down on
each model. I used a lot of rubber power model building
techniques to do this. Well, as I was taught by dad you have to
learn how to first crawl before you walk and then run. And so my
scale adventure had begun.
OK, for the
beginners, let’s look at some basics. I would have to
imagine that you already have a current AMA license or
(equivalent) and have earned your pilots wings. Those are
biggies…
With having the
basic fundamentals of R/C flying under your belt and a dozen
trainers or more flown/crashed/repaired you now feel that the
trainers are getting to be a bit boring. So, the thought strikes
you that you would like to build that scale masterpiece and show
the world and (your favorite buddies) that you have the talent to
build a scale model and fly with the “Big Dogs”.
Now for a little
meat and potatoes to get your taste buds working…
So, as a beginner
in scale modeling let’s take a look at how you can
accomplish some of these tasks. Put on your thinking cap use your
imagination and let’s begin. In today’s world there
are still some kits available along with a ton of ARF’s
(Almost
Ready
to Fly)
& ARC’s
(Almost
Ready
to Cover)
to pick from. Pick the kit/ARF/ARC
that meets your available budget, time and building skill level.
Most modelers on
the average will pick an ARF or ARC. These models have the least
amount of work to get them in the air for that ultimate
pleasure…looking and flying scale.
Let’s pick
an ARC model to start with. You will receive a pre-built model
almost ready to cover, install radio/engine/landing gear and then
detail to your likings.
First inspect the
model for any defects that might have happened in the
manufacturing process. Repair as necessary. When satisfied,
start with small details like aileron/elevator hinge gaps, wing
saddle fit, cowl alignment, engine installation etc. Make sure
everything is correct per manufacturer’s
instructions and that you are happy with everything.
Next, look on the
Internet for that ultimate color scheme or go through your
favorite documentation packages and choose the one you want to
model
your
ARC after. Sometimes I choose a plastic model that catches my eye
and use it for the project. (Editor’s note – plastics
are a good source of color detail and sometimes 3-views.)
Look at the
details presented to you and choose a couple of them to put on
your model. Be reminded that the model you are doing is
not a true scale model.
It is more than likely a stand-off scale model. You are using
this model as a test
bed
for the scale master model(s) to come.
There are
multiple areas on your ARC model to tackle. Let’s list a
few of them:
Panel lines
Fabric
stitching/pinking
Rivets/screws
Fiberglassing
Elevator/Aileron/Rudder/flap
Hinging details
Cockpit
detailing
Dummy engine
etc.
We can talk more
about these details later.
Please don’t
think you are going to do them all on this model. Some details
will be easier than others. Pick one or two details to apply to
the model.
If you ever
thought you wanted to be the master of illusions, now’s your
chance. On my scale masters project I first look at taking the
full scale subject and put it in a shrink machine. This is what I
want my model to look like when it is finished.
I also do one
other thing before I start my scale project. From start to finish
“I build the model in my mind to the point of completion”.
I’ll study the plans and the full scale first and go through
all the techniques that I’ll be using before I glue one
stick together. It’s a lot cheaper this way.
Let’s pick
an area on your ARC to start with. Let’s talk about
“Covering”. With an ARC model you need to look at the
complete airframe and see if all the imperfections have been
removed. Nicks, dings, dents will show up like a bad paint job on
a car. If the foundation is poor, you will only magnify it when
you put your covering over it. Take the time to putty /fill and
sand out any bad spots.
If you have a few
small dents that you want to remove without filling you can soak
the balsa with a few drops of water and steam them out with your
Monokote
iron (without the sock) until the water has completely evaporated
and the ding/dent has come flush with the surface. If
needed,
lightly putty/fill and sand out those spots that didn’t come
out with the steaming or didn’t meet your specifications. I
use “Patch and Paint” for those dings/dents. It can be
purchased at your local hardware store like “Home Depot”
etc.
Pick the covering
you wish to complete your model with. I’m an old “Dope
and Fabric” guy but have used Monokote
for
years. The choice is yours depending on what you are trying to
achieve scale wise.
Mr. Bob Frey (of
Phoenix AZ) has experimented with Monokote
in the sense that sometimes fiber glassing, priming and painting
can get a bit heavy and costly and time consuming. With great
success he has taken many models and Re- Monokoted
them and added scale panel lines, texture and even repainted over
the Monokote
to achieve the proper paint scheme and details desired.
For me there is a
particular way to apply
Monokote
so that you get a real good finish when done. Always keep in mind
the foundation of the airframe. It needs to be sanded with fine
sand paper. This
will give the model that foundation you need for a fantastic
finish whether you use Monokote or dope and fabric.
Start with 320 grit and progress to 400 grit to give it a real
nice finish. I have even used 800 grit for the final sanding on
some models. The
finished sanding will give the covering that drop dead gorgeous
finish you are looking for. ALWAYS
sand in the direction of the balsa grain. Don’t get too
excited with the sanding or you can make the balsa too thin and
you know what happens then...
If you can feel a
glue joint on cap stripping or sheeting joints etc. the Monokote
will magnify it when applied. This is very common with CA glues.
The heat from your iron will cause the glue joint to grow/rise.
(Bear in mind that the glue is harder than the balsa – sand
joints with care. Editor). Try to get the joints as smooth as
possible.
After you have
sanded your masterpiece to perfection you need to apply compressed
air carefully (approximately 20 -30 psig.) to the entire model to
remove all that pesky balsa dust. Take your time with the
compressed air. Monokote
needs to stick to the balsa. A layer of balsa dust between the
wood and covering will do nothing but give you a major headache
and a model that looks like…well you fill in the blank(s).
Now for the
covering process.
Stick
with me on this, the outcome will be astonishing.
With your model sanded and prepped for covering set you covering
iron to manufacturer’s heat specifications for the
particular covering you are going to use. We are going to use
Monokote
at
this time.
Pick a small part
like the stabilizer to start with. Start with the bottom surface
first. Cut the covering about 1.5”- 2.0” oversized for
the surface to be covered. Remember
to remove the clear plastic backing on the Monokote.
Don’t
laugh…I have heard many tear jerking stories about how that
stupid Monokote
didn’t stick like it was supposed to. Stupid Monokote…
Lay the covering
down on the bottom side of the stab with the side that you just
had the clear plastic backing removed. Lightly flatten it out so
that you have that 1.5”- 2.0” oversized covering as
equal as possible all the way around. Pick a tip and tack the
covering down with about a quarter to half inch tack. (Do
not tack on the very edge. You’ll see why later.)
Go to the other tip and lightly pull (or pre-stress) the covering
so that the covering shows little pull/crease in the covering.
Tack this tip down like the first tip. Allow to cool.
Go to the center
of the stabilizer. With both hands, pull the center of the
covering equally LE and TE out at the same time so that the
pre-stress crease from tip to tip goes away. Release one hand
slowly not allowing the other hand to move and tack that area down
like before. Allow to cool. Then lightly pull the other center
piece of covering outwards so the wrinkles go away. Tack this
edge down like the others. Now go to a corner of a tip (just pick
one) and lightly pull like you did on the other tacking’s
and tack it down. Repeat same procedure to the other three
corners.
Now, look from
the center of the stab to the tip and go half way out and pull the
covering like you just did with your two hands earlier. Tack down
LE and then TE. Repeat same procedure on the other side of the
stab.
After the tacking
has been completed, pick a starting point on the stab and lightly
pull outwards on the 1.5”- 2.0” oversized covering at
each location that you are going to apply heat/iron on. Keep
sealing the covering all the way around the stabilizer with this
technique. Apply a small radius of the covering on the LE/TIP/TE
etc. while lightly pulling and ironing the covering down. (This
is to keep the covering from loosing up when you apply heat from
the heat gun).
When you get
about a quarter of an inch from the start/finish area “STOP”
and leave that quarter of an inch open for the hot air to escape
from the heat gun process. Take your heat gun at this time and
turn it on. Allow it to come to temperature. Now, apply the heat
from the gun over the covering in a circular motion starting from
the tip area getting closer to the covering to remove any
wrinkles. (DON’T get to close or you will melt the
covering). Keep the heat
gun moving across the stab just enough to remove the wrinkles.
When you get to that open area of the covering stay away from it
at this time.
Now we are going
to pull the extra covering around the LE/Tips/TE for a smooth
finish and” no wrinkles”.
I do this by
putting the stabilizer between my legs to lightly hold it. CAUTION
- make
sure you are wearing long pants like Levies’ etc. (It gets a
bit warm when doing the technique). I like to start at the tip
area. This area is the most difficult area to make look good and
make smooth without any wrinkles.
With the heat gun
blazing away and the part between my legs I start pulling on the
extra covering (a
little harder than previously mentioned when tacking)
outwards and at the same time I move the heat gun in closer to the
covering and in a circular motion apply the hot air to the area I
want to stretch around the surface. Watch those fingers - they
can get heated up when doing this.
This action will
happen quicker than you expect. The covering gets hot and starts
the stretching/melting process. At this time you pull the
covering around those pesky compound corners as much as it will
yield without melting or ripping off. If a wrinkle appears go
back and repeat the process until you are satisfied.
Repeat this same
process around the entire stabilizer. When you are satisfied take
a NEW
#11 X-Acto blade and trim the excess covering in as straight line
as possible so that you leave at least 50 - 75% of the LE/Tip
covered around the edge(s). Take you Monokote
iron that has been set to the proper ironing temperature and seal
the edges down completely. This will be enough covering so that
when you do the other side of the stabilizer it will be enough for
the other covering to adhere too and create a good seal.
Now, you’re
asking what happened to that quarter inch air hole for hot air to
escape. You’ve sealed it up but it’s OK. When you
gunned the wrinkles out earlier it did the job it was put there to
do. Now do the other side of the stabilizer the same way. When
finished and you want to seal the covering to the wood you can gun
it down or use you Monokote
iron (with a sock installed).
If you use the
heat gun you’ll need a hot mitt. You can purchase one from
your local hobby shop or go to your favorite discount bargain
store and pick up one there. I use the terry cloth type hot mitt
that my wife donated. They seem to be a bit more flexible or
softer after they are washed and dried. Bottom line is to make
sure your mitt is not coarse or abrasive. It will transfer its
signature to you covering and down to the fine sanded balsa wood
finish you worked so hard to perfect earlier.
When you are
ready to seal the covering to the top and bottom of your
stabilizer you will need to take that sharp #11 X-Acto blade and
make a small
slice
on an outward angle (like a 45 deg. or more) towards the corner of
the tip area. This is to allow the extra air to escape while
pressing the covering down after being heated again. DON’T
make a vertical cut in the covering or the heat will split the
covering and make a hole there. NOT GOOD.
First place the
stabilizer on a flat but soft surface so that you can work with it
and not damage the other side. It also needs to be as stationary
as possible. Start close to the tip of the stabilizer and work
your way across to the other side with the heat gun. This is to
re-tauten the covering getting a little closer as you go so that
you start to see the covering tauten. Again move the heat gun in
a circular motion. Do not stay in one place to long or you’ll
burn a hole in the covering. Move the heat gun closer as needed
to get the covering to tighten and not take all day. This is
about a 1 second interval moving the gun approximately 1 inch in
movement and about 1 - 1.5 inches from the covering. (This is a
“BIGGIE” when working over open bay areas like wing
bays etc. The solid surface is a bit more lenient but it can
still burn through the covering). Watch that cut in the covering.
Stay away from it until the end of the process.
Go back to your
starting point and start the process over again except this time
you are going to follow with your hot mitt and seal the now
well-heated covering into place. Remember the covering is being
heated and tightened at the same time you are pushing the air out
and pressing the covering down into place with hand pressure from
your hot mitt. Keep everything moving until you get to the other
end. Repeat the same process again but move the operation down an
inch or two. Be aware of the slice you put in earlier. Don’t
penetrate too much heat into that area. When the slice is rubbed
over it will seal itself. Again go over the slice fairly fast.
If you want, use
the Monokote
Iron to do the same procedures as stated above only use the iron
in place of the hot mitt. If you wish to install the
Monokote
iron sock please do so. You will have to increase the temperature
of the iron to compensate for the sock.
The proper
procedure for putting on this type of covering is this. The
fuselage
should
be done starting on the bottom then the sides and then the top.
This is to seal the model and keep fuel/oil from getting under the
covering and loosening it etc.
The next
procedure will be used on the aileron and the aileron/wing
sockets.
(Very special note: MAKE SURE YOUR TONGUE IS IN THE PROPER
POSITION OF YOUR MOUTH BEFORE YOU START. Mine is in the right
corner.) The vertical stab and rudder are done the same way as
stated below.
Start with the
ailerons and cover the ends first with small scrap pieces. This
is called “Facing”.
These pieces are fairly large. This is needed so you can hold
them with your fingers when pulling the covering.
First center the
covering on the aileron end and use the iron to tack it. Start at
the leading edge area of the aileron. Tack it down and then go to
the trailing edge and lightly pull the covering so that it creates
that small crease (like that mentioned in above procedure) and
tack it down. Pick a side about half way and pull one edge out
lightly in the center area so that the crease starts to go away
and tack it down. Repeat for the other edge. Keep sealing the
covering while lightly pulling the covering outwards until it is
completely sealed down on all edges.
You will need to
leave a small opening (like the stab) so that the air can escape.
Once happy with everything seal the opening. Don’t place
too much heat on the end surface or you will get bubbles under the
covering.
Depending on the
size of the aileron end I use the heat gun to relax the extra
covering (while pulling at and around the corner). This happens
quickly as noted in the stabilizer covering procedures above. You
can use your iron if you wish but the heat gun gives you better
finish. “DON’T APPLY HEAT GUN AIR ON THE SEALED “END”
OF THE AILERON” it will loosen (and make you very mad).
Only apply heat gun air on the loose covering and the edge of the
aileron.
The purpose for
this is to get the covering to flow around those pesky corners
again. After you are satisfied with the aileron end, take the
iron tip and seal the covering around the aileron ends
/top/bottom. This should leave you with approximately 1/8 inch of
covering that is attached to the top, bottom, front and rear of
the aileron end. Take a straight edge and use a #11 X-Acto blade
and cut/leave a 1/16 inch perimeter of covering around the aileron
end. Cut only through the covering. Try not to cut into the
balsa. (This is a TONGUE THING.) (See note above).
Use this same
facing technique for the trailing edge of the wing/aileron socket
where the aileron leading edge is to mate up with the wing. After
all of the “facing” has been applied then you can
start the real joy of covering your ailerons and wing etc.
The aileron can
now be covered in one
piece
starting from the “bottom” of the trailing edge all
the way around to the “top” trailing edge. “No”
seams to lift up.
Us the same
covering techniques as mentioned above in the stabilizer covering
procedure. The wing can be done in 4 pieces or in two. I
recommend that as beginners you go with the 4 pieces. Again apply
the covering as you would the stabilizer. Bottom first and then
top. Give the center section (top & Bottom) at least a ¼
inch overlap.
I think by now
you get the idea of how to apply the covering to get a real good
finish. If you get the “PERFECT” covering job the
first time, I tip my hat to you. It took me many of models
practicing the techniques before I came up with the covering job I
was very proud of.
If you have any
questions …Please ask. I’ll do my best to clarify
them for you.